Thanks to the Titan Deck Foot Anchor™ anyone can effortlessly install ground anchored deck footings at a fraction of the cost of concrete footings.
If your deck can be Free Standing - not attached to the ledger of your house - and 80% or more of all residential decks can be - you are going to love this product.
Just use an electric impact wrench and easily drive the anchor down - or reverse if necessary.
It is a far more secure system, for floating decks as low as 2" to as high as 6' or 7' (with proper bracing) above the ground, walkways, sheds or other lightweight structures, than concrete blocks.
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It's the first helical ground anchor footing system that installs easily with a lightweight hand held tool.
Your deck remains firmly anchored to the ground and won't be blown away in the next high wind storm.
A "Free Standing" deck, also called a "floating" deck, is not supported by a dwelling. The deck is not attached to a ledger board which is in turn bolted through to the rim joist of the floor deck of the dwelling.
A deck that is not supported by a dwelling need not have footings that extend below the frost line. (IRC Section R.403.1.4.1, Exception 3)
Allow 3/4" to 1" of clearance between the siding of the house and the deck for any seasonal movement that may occur. A floating deck will simply rise up and down over the course of the winter.
Prepare and level the area, about 24" (60 cm) square by removing any sod and laying down a few inches of 3/4" and smaller crushed stone (not clean).
This compacts nicely and is porous so that water can drain freely without eroding soil.
WARNING: If your soil is full of rocks or roots, you likely will not be able to use this kind of system or any spike system for that matter.
Place the plate over the rod and set the nut about one third of the way down the threads.
Use a 12mm socket over the hex headed end. (A 1/2" will work, but it is not recommended because it's a bit loser and you might strip the hex drive head.) Drive the anchor down until the cap plate contacts the ground and the underside of nut just below the socket shown here.
Avoid continuing to turn the auger because this will just turn up the soil around the helical blades.
Use a 24mm or 1" socket and screw the nut down along the threaded rod until the plate contacts the stop washer underneath the plate.
Stop turning the nut as soon as you feel the plate has contacted the stop washer. This compresses the plate on the surface below.
Unless you are an experienced carpenter, do not try to attach your deck to a ledger on an existing home.
Properly attaching a ledger board to an existing home can be a major task. If the ledger is built during the construction of the house then all the details like flashing and siding are so much simpler.
This ledger was installed after the house was built. The exterior was vinyl siding so much easier to deal with then brick, stucco or cementitious fiber board. But this was still a big job.
The rim and floor joists were engineered I-beams so the very first difficult task is to determine exactly where the rim joist is and remove the siding to match it.
Then each space between the joists had to be block with 2x8 material because the rim joist was OSB board.
The first layer of flashing extends from under the ledger to at least 4" above the cut line of the siding. The second layer slides over this layer and will hang over the ledger board with a drip edge to direct water down.
Go up high enough under the existing siding to ensure things stay dry. If you are dealing with a masonry facade you have a ton more work to do and that is a lesson all unto itself.
Complicating this job was a natural gas line that the gas grill was going to connect to. This ledger had to be accurately cut to fit perfectly.
Building a free standing deck avoids all of these issues. And thankfully the vast majority of residential decks can be free standing.
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Our patented "Terra-Shift™" technology was developed specifically for the Titan Deck Foot anchor™. It protects your support post to beam connections in the event of seasonal soil movements.
It allows any support post under a beam to slide up and down independently in the bracket whenever there are uneven forces or stress.
So all your critical connections remain protected in the event of frost. It's like a shock absorber system for your deck footings and posts!
The Terra-Shift™ post bracket allows a post to slide up in the bracket under at least 50% less force when compared to a standard vertical slot.
When nature decides to exert force on your deck, the footings, posts and beams work as complete system.
Posts can temporarily rise up in the bracket so that the post to beam connection is not pulled apart.
You can build your deck with joists as low as 2"-3" above grade if you wish.
Simply hang the joists from the perimeter joist. If you want to extend the deck beyond the footing, extend the side perimeter joists 6"-10" and fill with blocking joists along the length.
With proper bracing in both directions from 6x6 posts to beams, you can make a six foot high free standing deck as solid as a rock. It's possible to go even higher but it is not intended to support decks at a second floor elevation.
The Rule of Thumb is 6'-0" apart for each footing. This corresponds to a design load of 50 psf and tributary areas over each footing of 36 sqft.
So the total load imposed on the soil below each footing would be a maximum of 1800 psf as the footing is just slightly larger than 1 sqft.
Not sure how many footings you will need? No worries, try this Footings Calculator. You input the dimensions of your deck and the estimated soil bearing capacity and it will show you the number of footings so you do not exceed the soil's load capacity.
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The Titan Deck Foot Anchor™ is comprised of three parts: a Post Bracket, a Load or Cap Plate, and an Auger.
Auger lengths are 24" or 36". Use a 24" for most applications where soil is hardest. Use a 36" where soil is softer, sandier or you just want maximum pull out resistance.
Longer auger length does not make the footing more resistant to frost nor does it make the footing immobile against frost. The Cap Plate will always rest on the surface and the entire deck will rise up and down 1/2" or so during a winter if the soil freezes.
This was a large multi-level deck that really shows off the usefulness of the Titan Deck Foot Anchor™. Three separate areas. All intricately designed to wrap around a hot tub spa and create intimate areas.
The first area was off the back patio door about 3-1/2' high. The others were lower level platforms over a gradual grade sloping away from the house.
All 24 footings were installed before lunch hour.
Can you imagine the work involved if we had to dig and cement for this job?
Another building benefit is being able to use the Titan Deck Foot Anchor™ to easily drop beams within 2" of the grade. Try doing this with a block...
Low set beams
You can also hang joists from beam face to beam face if your really wanted to hide all the beams of a low level deck. That is next to impossible to do with blocks.
First, if we used concrete blocks we would have had trouble figuring out how to get the deck joist framing as low to the ground because they sit higher.
Second, the deck would just loosely sit on them. Here, each footing and post to beam connection is secured to the ground.
Third, we didn't want to see cement blocks when you walked by the highest level deck.
The Deck Foot Anchor™ is a DecksGo Recommended Product. It's one that we are confident you will be happy with. It's been tested in some of the harshest cold and sweltering heat temperatures and it has proven to be as tough as nails.
DecksGo was the first company to bring this product to the market, and you can expect more great "first" moments like this.
This is what we do - try to bring you leading edge building solutions before anyone else.